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That is interesting. I had never considered trending blow by as a health indicator.

I was really thinking about the fuel vent though. Performing the leak test on the OOPS fittings highlighted how tightly the fuel cap seals. And, around here critters will seal a fuel vent in a heartbeat. C-150 guys usually change out to vented fuel caps.

Wes

Hi Guys,

A quick update.

Second wing stub finished. Flaps and ailerons F9 polished. Ailerons hung and rigged. Anti-skid applied.



First set of wing locks built. Second set tomorrow.



Forever Forward,

Wes

Hi Guys,

Well, I cleaned up the polish job and removed some of the assembly scratches. Far from perfect but good enough for now.



I've been fretting over paint ever since I started this project. I had just about convinced myself to rattle can all the fiberglass parts but couldn't stop thinking about alternatives. Last week I took the parts out and got estimates from a couple of paint and body shops. That was less than gratifying. Then, with a little poking around on the internet I found this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtD0wvNAjD0

Anybody else tried this method of painting? Looks promising to me.

Wes (So near and yet so far) Ragle

Polish job looks nice, Watched the video but the thing that kept crossing my mind is that there is very little flat area for the roller to be effective on the fiberglass parts. If they were flat, they would probably be made from of aluminum sheet.

David A.

Hi Wes,

Also, with this product we are back to working with a hazardous material as compared to Dupli-color acrylic enamel (although it isn't apparent that the presenter is particularly concerned about it, i.e. no respirator). You seem to have done a good job with the Dupli-color.........why are you still unhappy with it???

Art,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Sonex taildragger #95,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Jabiru 3300 #261

Hey Guys,

DCASonex wrote:kept crossing my mind is that there is very little flat area for the roller to be effective on the fiberglass parts.

I understand your point but it seems to me that the Onex wing tips are all flat except at the seam at the very tip. The cowl is pretty flat from side to side except at the inlet. The wheel pants, now that a different story. Might be able to tip it (brush it) in the difficult areas. Don't know.

builderflyer wrote:Also, with this product we are back to working with a hazardous material as compared to Dupli-color acrylic enamel (although it isn't apparent that the presenter is particularly concerned about it, i.e. no respirator). You seem to have done a good job with the Dupli-color.........why are you still unhappy with it???

If the product is rolled, that is the product is not airborne, and you work in a well ventilated/large area it doesn't seem like a respirator would be needed.

I am not unhappy with the Dupli-color, I just have some reservations as to whether or not I will be able to get nice results on large, relatively flat surfaces. I also worry that once the enamel is applied there is no backing out. Can I switch to a two part product without removing the enamel first? Don't know for sure.

Since the Alexseal cures very hard and can be wet sanded/buffed it gives me some confidence that even if I get orange peal I can fix it. My experience with Dupli-color is a little mixed in that regard. I was able to buff the tail tips which had cured for months. I painted the fairings and tried to buff one after only a month or so and quickly burned through. I know, sloppy technique, but that's what you get when your an armature:-) And with a two part process I feel confident that If I totally mess it up I can sand it and switch back to enamel with no problems. I'm thinking that by using a two part paint I'm giving myself two chances to get decent results. If the Alexseal doesn't work out all I've done is wasted time and money. Now there's something I am good at :-)

Wes

WesRagle wrote:Hey Guys,

I am not unhappy with the Dupli-color, I just have some reservations as to whether or not I will be able to get nice results on large, relatively flat surfaces. I also worry that............

Wes

I worry too, Wes. But what I can say is that the Dupli-color is not easily buffed away if there have been enough coats applied. My skill at applying paints is similar to my skill at working with fiberglass.......that is to say I over apply each and then sand away what is not needed. The concern you have regarding "hardness", however, is a valid one. The acrylic enamel will never be as durable as the polyurethane and that's it's major shortcoming.

Good success with whatever you do,

Art,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Sonex taildragger #95,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Jabiru 3300 #261

Hi Art,

Yea, there are pluses and minuses to every paint process. The Alexseal rolling process appears to be a medium cost alternative between rattle can and spraying polyurethane. I'm going to try it. Like I said, if it doesn't work out I can always go back to Dupli-color.

In the mean time I finally got around to installing the baggage compartment. It still needs a little trim before I put the bottom (3/32" plywood) in.



I was waiting on installing the baggage compartment until I painted the former just behind the cockpit. After watching Ben's video on vinyl wrap I couldn't resist dipping a toe. So, I use 3M 2080 vinyl instead of paint. The 2080 has a thin plastic film on the outside to prevent damage during installation. You can see the film still (somewhat) attached. The stuff is pretty awesome. I probably should have gotten a less stark white but, aside from that, it's great. Easy install, easy clean up, and the dry time is very fast ;-)



The paint should be here tomorrow. I'll report on my experience, good, bad, or indifferent.

Wes

Hi Guys,

Just about finished with the baggage compartment. The flash makes the material look grey, but it's really black. Under normal lighting you can't see anything at all. Just solid black back there.


Inspection/access panel for the idler. The protective plastic still on the Lexan.


Working on closing up the bulkhead just aft of the baggage compartment.


I still haven't riveted the forward edge of the baggage compartment. I really can't do that until I figure out how the sling and seat back tie in. I have a template of the rivets holes to use when the time comes.

I'm happy with it. It's made of 0.016 6061 T-6 with a thin piece of plywood on the bottom to prevent "point loads". It's all covered with glued on fabric. Probably weighs about 5 lbs. Not suitable for anvils or bowling balls but it's plenty large for bulky items.

Forever Forward,

Wes

Hi Wes, I really like how your documenting your project, NICE job with your build! If its ok with you I'd like to also document the same way. I fly into Dallas often and would love to swing by and check out your project.

Michael K